Tag Archives: ecological fashion

What slow fashion?

Of course you have heard talk about slow fashion. This is what we should be doing, right? But what is it all about?

Last weekend I read a couple of interesting articles on slow fashion. Those articles inspired me to write this blog text about the phenomenon. Also, it kind of got me to do a little DIY project, too.

In short, the term slow fashion means lengthening the life cycle of a clothing. In the production and design process this means choosing quality materials and maintening a zero waste principle when cutting patterns. As for us consumers, our task is to sustain the clothes that we own, repair and modify them, and in the end recycle them properly.

Slow fashion is not directly to be understood as an opposite to fast fashion, because the idea of slow fashion is not to give up dressing fashionably. It is not about that boring talk about classic clothes and the idea of a basic wardrobe that you need to own. For most of us this isn’t working. We do want to look stylish and fashionable. Slow fashion is not intended to ignore these facts. Above all we shouldn’t underestimate the power of clothing: it can be considered as our social skin between our body and sociocultural environment. Anyway, what has made the concept of slow fashion a bit boring is this: it has been associated with hippie green clothing and odd DIY projects, which I am not personally interested in. I do read fashion magazines and I do get excited about trying their style tips, because I just love dressing up. And for my job I write fashion articles and give style tips, so I am more a part of the fashion industry rather than looking it from the outside. Today I just intend to find other solutions and more and more I try to give old clothes a fashionable life, if you want to put it that way.

And this is where we come to the core of slow fashion; it is more about positive attitude towards dressing up, changing attitudes and of course lengthening the life of clothes. This we can all do, right? If we use only 10 % of the contents of our wardrobe, we have a 90 % chance to find something “new” in our closet. This is innovative thinking that I am talking about.

My black velvet dress that you see in the picture is a good example of slow fashion action. I found the dress in a local flea market. The velvet dress was a size XL, but with a little modification I made it to fit me. As you might have seen, this autumn is all about velvet, and I have been thinking of making a velvet dress for myself for a while. Of course I could have bought a new one. It would have been easy, but I wanted to find another solution: use an old dress and give it a new life. At the same time I created a story behind this dress, which I am sharing with you now. This 1€ dress is definitely more valuable than if I had bought the same style dress in a high street store.

The French term bricolage is technically what I have been doing. It is one way to do slow fashion. When mixing up old and new, you are an innovative consumer, innosumer, who doesn’t want to follow the speedy fashion industry, but who wants to modify clothes and find new solutions to be fashionable and stylish.

To be more creative, more inventiveness and using more practical thinking – those are the values that I want to represent with my social skin. Of course my little bricolage is a simple and easy step, but it is a start towards slow and more meaningful fashion.

References:

Koskennurmi-Sivonen, Ritva & Laamanen Tanja-Kaarina 2014: Muodin hidastaminen. Teoksessa Kättä pidempää – Otteita käsityön tutkimuksesta ja käsitteellistämisestä. Toim. Seija Karppinen, Anna Kouhia & Erja Syrjäläinen. Helsingin yliopisto.

Niinimäki, Kirsi 2007: Eettisen kuluttajuuden tulevaisuudenkuva. Artikkeli julkaistu Futura-lehdessä, 4/2007.

Siegle, Lucy 2011: To Die For. Is Fashion Wearing Out the World. London: Fourth Estate.

Read more:

 Wardrobe analyze  – and how to extend the life of clothes

6 reasons why you should buy second hand clothing

The story of green pants

Towards sustainable clothing

A couple of weeks ago I did an online exam for the course Textiles, consumption and sustainable development, which I participated in this autumn. One of the questions was to consider how we as textile consumers could live in a more sustainable way. From a theoretical point of view it was kind of easy to answer: stop buying more and more clothes, invest in quality clothes, shop in your own closet, take care of your textiles and wash them according to instructions and of course, above all, do everything you can to lengthen the life cycle of your garments.

Yes, in theory this is easy, but what about practice? I mean, yes, I can make myself a budget for how much new stuff I can buy or I can go to the second hand markets instead of buying new clothes. This is easy. That is what I am actually doing. I hardly ever visit any fashion stores nowadays. But this is not where the danger is. It is right in our hands every half an hour. I am talking about our cellphones. Think about how many times a day you look at Instagram pictures or some success stories on Facebook. This all makes a difference. Nowadays the fashion bloggers and it girls on Instagram are showing several new fashion trends and outfits every week for us to get excited about. I mean, how many times have you already seen that choker necklace or bomber jacket on Instagram? Or have you heard about contouring makeup?

The whole fashion industry seems to be a bit lost. Through social media channels and fashion influencers trends are changing so fast that even the fashion industry and above all the high fashion houses can’t keep up. Clearly two to four collections a year it is not enough. At the same time fashion shows are more about who is in the audience and street style images than actually about the shows. And then after six months when the clothes seen in the fashion show are on sale, it is kind of too late. The fashion world has turned their heads towards other trends. So fashion houses need to consider if it would be wise to make the collection available immediately after the show. Also, there is the fact that high street brands are bringing the upcoming trends to their stores much faster than the actual high fashion brands. Democracy? Maybe, for those who haven’t got that much money. But it is exploitation and bad working conditions for those who are making the clothes.

This all seems so ridiculous but it is as much reality as it is the “like” button in social media. It is hard not to be affected. Of course we can choose who to follow on Instagram, but still even you are not interested in what is in fashion, you kind of know what is on the menu for this season. Or you know it if you have seen a picture of Gigi, Kendall or Chiara. All these messages about who is wearing what are saying to us: buy it, buy more. Wear it like this, buy this super cool brand.

It is so ridiculous. Yes, you can say: “I don’t care”, but it is still easy to affect us. Think about how we lack self-discipline when we need to be without our mobile phones for a couple of hours. We can hardly go to bed at night without the phone next to us. This all tells about how vulnerable we are when it comes to the latest fashion or makeup trends. And it is not just young people but us we adults are affected as well. We are following the trends, too. Those who have money trade their handbags at least twice a year for the latest it bag. This says not about your personal style, it says you can be a part of the circle.

Yes, I am going far with my topic about acting in a more sustainable way, but still: where is the talk about ecological fashion? Or those images that support the idea of sustainability in fashion on social media? Of course there are some, but I am sure fashion influencers could do more, the same goes for the fashion industry.

But in one way the fashion influencers are looking at the future: they often borrow clothes from showrooms. This idea we should democratize more. Those borrow-a-garment stores should be everywhere. Also, we need to change our minds about ownership: we don’t have to own all those favorite pieces of clothing, especially what comes to evening wear. We should have the possibility to borrow them. I do know such stores exists, but this is still a concept that should be more available. This way we could kind of get that excitement of getting a new dress, we could consume in a more sustainable way and lengthen the life cycle of a piece of clothing.

Maybe this is going to be the future. Maybe the whole fashion industry just going to go even faster that more and more people are going to think “I don’t accept this” and start supporting more ecological and local brands. Maybe the fashion world and its influencers want to be a part of this kind of movement. Maybe sustainable thinking will be the next big trend the way that organic cosmetics and food are now.

Maybe.

The truth is that the whole fashion industry needs to change. As consumers we can be ahead of all this and start shopping more in our own closet and show that we can use its contents year after year. Show that life’s important message is somewhere else than tagging our clothes on Instagram.

The clothes that you see in this story were all picked up insecond hand markets.